Tag: beauty

The black dress: the challenge of the future

 
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Fascination. Elegance. Beauty. A legendary garment and the challenge of the fashion of the future: the black dress.
We have always linked the idea of black color to mourning. After the wars the widows dressed in black and did not choose another color as a symbol of respect for the deceased. However, it was a fashionable color when it ceased to be the symbol of duel.
Cocó Chanel was the revolutionary of the time. After learning sewing at the orphanage in which she grew up, she would never have imagined that she would have so much influence on the fashion world of today. On October 1, 1926, the first black dress was created and it differed from the rest. Its structure was simple, practical and easy to look. It was the dress of the emancipated woman.
Chanel’s idea was to free the woman. And she did, transferring masculine fashion (in particular the Dandee look) and the expressions of men to the feminine fashion. This created a kind of uniform for women, which gave confidence and allowed women to dress well reducing the risk of making mistakes.
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Thanks to me poor girls can dress like the rich ones.

-Cocó Chanel

And Chanel did not believe in wealth. She believed in beauty and cared about what was elegant. And the black dress was (and still is).

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However, Paul Poiret, one of the first fashion designers as we talked about in previous articles, was not very funny about the idea of the black dress. Simply, the Paris fashion dictator did not accept it. So much that when he met Chanel (who was wearing a black dress), Poiret asked: “For whom do you see in mourning?” – to which Chanel replied: for you, gentleman.

From the creation of the first black dress model, creativity flowed through the blood of designers. Why not join the black and white? It was a mixture of colors that went against all trends. And that was its essence. This imagination continues to flow as we have previously seen speaking of Iris Van Herpen, who, along with her first 3D fashion collection, also included the first black dress made in three dimensions.

They were not fashionable days. 1939 was a hard year for Chanel since she closed its meson. Along with the end of the war, the strongest was Christian Dior, who creates a new look in retro style and the black dress returns to resurface having an overwhelming success.

But what about the black dress in the film? The black dress has been an icon of the film in all its senses. That idea that is related to the protagonism of what they call Femme Fatale. Those intelligent and despised women who are not objects, but subjects. They are the dark women of Hollywood. The woman in that black dress had a deadly weapon. It meant she was a fantastic woman, a bad woman. And is that without any doubt, black is a defiant color when it has to be.

Rita Hayworth in Gilda (1946). Lauren Bacall in The Big Sleep (1946) or Marilyn Monroe in The Asphalt Jungle (1950), are some of the femme fatale of the time.

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Lauren Bacall in The Big Sleep

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Marilyn Monroe in The Asphalt Jungle

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Rita Hayworth in Gilda

But certainly, in the 60´s was Audrey Hepburn that would bring the change of the concept of the black dress in Breakfast with Diamonds (1961). She chose that model because she had a different neckline in the back for the first scene of the film. She had the physical, the presence and the posture. She was almost a model. With it, the concept of the black dress changes. We are not talking about a Femme Fatale. Now the one that predominates is the romantic woman, like Audrey.

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Great designers of luxury dresses have taken to their ground a different concept of the black dress. Due to the boom and the concept of the dress in the cinematographic field, many designers went to design their own version of the dress. In particular, in the year 1970, this beautiful dress of Yves Saint Laurent with lacy back full:

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When Cocó Chanel died in 1971, her legacy relegated to the well-known Karl Lagerfeld. The German designer had with Cocó a love-hate relationship. Because she had found the signature look of Chanel and he was in charge of reviving it. But he did, and returned Chanel to the fashion elite.

And later, in 1994, how to forget that black Versace dress worn by Elizabeth Hurley at the premiere of Four Weddings and a Funeral (1994) in London, accompanying Hugh Grant:

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Straight, tight, with sleeves, sleeveless, long, short, with lace, without it, with the back open, closed or even in 3D. Undoubtedly the black dress will always prevail in the fashion world and will continue to amaze us every season. What will be the next black dress that triumphs in the history of fashion?

The expensive privilege of Haute Couture

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Exclusiveness. The measure. Garments made by hand and with little use of the sewing machine. Luxury materials hand-stitched carefully for a perfect finish. Costurers who develop new techniques that take a long time.
That is why it is said that Haute Couture pieces are priceless. The development of these bespoke designs is known worldwide and only a few privileged can afford. It is an exclusive design, made with the highest quality materials that will adapt to every inch of your body. Undoubtedly, Haute Couture is the dream of every woman.
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Catherine Riviere is in charge of directing the Haute Couture of the house Dior. She controls the entire process, from being manufactured until the customer buys it. Her function is mainly to ensure that the house maintains the tradition but adapting to the modern. She does not talk about prices. She says that the price of a Haute Couture garment should only matter to the client who is going to buy the garment and that if she then wants to say what it has cost, say it. Despite not wanting to talk about prices, she gives a clue: from 40,000 €. However, a piece of what we know as prêt-à-porter, would cost us approximately 8,000 €.

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Dior Haute Couture

But many will ask: What´s the difference between Haute Couture and prêt-à-porter? The materials used. But above all, the hours. Many will think that we talk about expensive clothes. And it is true. But it is what they cost. They may be working on a dress for a whole year, counting on the manufacture of the materials, the measurements of the client and the work of the seamstresses. It is a work of art, a way of being and thinking. It is something unique and extraordinary that will have only an individual experience. And that’s where the difference is made.
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Chanel Prêt-à-porter.

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Chanel Haute Couture

Prêt-à-porter (ready to wear) garments, would be the ones that are made, unlike the Haute Couture, with a certain pattern and with which they work according to the demand of the product. We could say that they are the clothes we usually wear on a daily basis (although some people can afford wear Haute Couture daily).
Not all luxury brands that most of us know work with Haute Couture garments. In fact, there is an union in which you must meet some guidelines to be part of this select club.
1. The first rule is that the house must design the client an exclusive piece and totally tailored, with one or more tests until the garment is perfect.
2. The second rule talks about the membership of a workshop or studio that is located in Paris and has at least 20 employees working full time.
3. The third but not least is that each season must present to the public a collection of at least 50 new designs of the brand.
All the houses that make Haute Couture, also make prêt-à-porter. In addition, the latest is the one that gives more income to the brands. It’s what sells the most and it takes less time to make it.
The official members of Haute Couture are: Chanel, Giorgio Armani, Christian Dior, Jean Paul Gaultier, Stephane Rolland and Giambattista Valli. In addition, foreign members include Elie Saab and Versace.
During the 20th century Haute Couture suffered a significant decline. From 106 homes in 1946 to only 18 in 2000, reducing to only 9 in 2004 (Versace, Dior, Chanel, Valentino, Lacroix, Gaultier, Givenchy …).
 
 
 
 

Versailles fashion Show

“Fashion is the history of a tissue.”

-Eleonor Lambert

The distance between continents was reduced. That night meant a change in culture. In fashion. People were looking for surprise, it was like playing a game. It was the turning point that changed everything. That night of 1973 fashion saved a palace in ruins, the Palace of Versailles.
Eleonor Lambert was the precursor of all this night. We could say that she was the true creator of fashion. In the 40s she was a publicist and started to make the lists that today we know as Top Tens of the best dresses. Without doubt, it was the Ana Wintour of the time. And also, a formidable organizer.

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Eleonor Lambert

Everything arose with the ideal motive: the Palace of Versailles. An idea that originated in order to raise funds to be able to reform it. And why not, also with the reason to join two continents that despite their differences, had many more things in common than they thought: among them, the exquisite taste for fashion. To create beauty in any of its forms.
A runaway and a dinner. New York and Paris. Both involved in a context in which everything was allowed. The first homosexual movements, feminism. People of color are already on TV. Creativity was undoubtedly booming and people could not care less. Quite the opposite: it was what they were looking for. And the sexual and artistic freedom of the time pushed much to the creation of new designs that represented the free women.
Givenchy, Yves Saint Laurent, Dior, Pierre Cardin and Emanuel Hungaro went on the night of November 28th to present their designs of Parisian Haute couture. The New York side was represented by designers Stephen Burrows, Anne Klein, Bill Blass, Oscar de la Renta and Halston.
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At that time France was the pioneer of fashion par excellence. They rehearsed in the mornings while the Americans had to settle for the nights. The fashion event of the year had an anecdote. Halston, one of the North American designers, outdid others and knew it. He had a natural elegance but a great ego. Everyone was knocking at his door and he was a marketing genius. In the short time New Yorkers had to rehearse their runaways, time was running out and Halston saw that he was not going to be able to prepare his runaway. He picked up the door and went away angry, leaving the rest of the team to manage as he was because he was not going to participate in this. However, the next day it appeared as if nothing had happened.
Runaway begins. French were very chic and their sets were fantastic. It was a very French runaway, very elaborate but very complex. There was too much movement and it was very pretentious. Especially emphasized Josephine Baker, that paraded with great feathers in the head and made a spectacular interpretation.
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The decorations were made of wood from the 17th century. There was everything and those present were amazed at what they saw: a rhinoceros pulling a cart. A pumpkin carriage (Dior), reindeer and many bright things. These were among other things that they could appreciate in the 2 hours and a half that lasted the parade. However, there were so many mixed ideas that the attendees were left with the feeling that it had been a bit ridiculous. Most do not remember the clothes that were exposed that night.
Nervous and excited the 42 North American models that paraded in Versailles, were set in motion. And the color exploded.
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Stephen Burrows, the only designer still alive from that night, revolutionized the runway with his stunning African-American models. They radiated beauty everywhere. An innovative element, since most of the models that used to parade were of white complexion. If we join it to the burst of color of the clothes of Burrows, the parade left open mouth to more than one.
The entire North American show was wrapped in a Broadway musical. It gave energy with its designs, with its music. It was like a breath of fresh air that the French loved. For more information, it all culminated in the perfect and fabulous performance of Liza Minelli. It was only 37 minutes of show in which the Parisians felt absolute admiration for the runaway of the Americans. And the first to stand was Princess Grazia of Monaco.
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At the end of the shows, those present gathered for dinner. But they could not begin, someone was missing. –Where is Eleonor Lambert? We can not start without it!-Someone said. And there she was, sending a press release in which he commented that the American runaway had been a success.
An experience that all those who were on that night of November 28, 1973 still remember and will not forget. Because the models began to have more opportunities; Because Paris realized that it needed to be renewed; Because New York took a giant leap; Because the African American triumphed; And last but not least:
Because they rescued Versailles.

Valentina Sampaio: first transgender model at the cover of Vogue Paris

“I was always a girl and I was always treated as such. This is how I feel and that is what I transmit to people”

-Valentina Sampaio

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Vogue Paris has already announced: Valentina Sampaio (instagram @valentts) will be the first transgender model to occupy the March issue cover in the French edition of Vogue.
The Brazilian model, is 21 years old and has already collaborated with several recognized brands  in the fashion industry such as Vitorino Campos, Patrícia Vieira, Água de Coco, Fernanda Yamamoto, Nohda Experiment, Ronaldo Fraga and Helo Rocha.
The cover that will be carried out next March has been the result of the work of Marcus Piggot and Met Alas, in charge of photographing her, as well as with the collaboration of Emmannuelle Alt, who was in charge of the styling of the model.
Undoubtedly with her beauty and her figure, is breaking down all prejudices and beating records. Like the rest of the world, fashion also evolves and this cover is the example of it. Treated as one more and proud to become what she is after all the process that has undergone, Valentina Sampaio is the first to occupy the title Transgender beauty: how they are revolutionizing the world.
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His male name has never been published. However, confirms that she has never felt identified as a man and that at the age of 10 read Valentina’s name and she loved it. In addition, she also explains that she has never been bullied and that she has been respected and accepted as she is.

“It is necessary to speak of this now so that in the future it is not necessary”

-Valentina Sampaio

With 1.77 m height, she began her professional career at the age of 16. Her example of courage, her desire to make it known that she should not be apart and his battle to overcome until what she has achieved today, are the reasons why Vogue Paris has decided to turn her into its cover. For everything behind the beautiful model.

The director of the magazine Emmannuelle Alt says that she is very happy to carry out this issue of March because they manage to change the face of fashion, thus ending any kind of prejudice.

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“The day that a transsexual pose on the cover of a magazine and it is not necessary to write an editorial about it we will know that the battle is won”

-Emmannuelle Alt

In addition to being already the cover of Elle magazine, participating in fashion week in Sao Paulo and being one of the ambassadors of L’Oreal Paris, the Brazilian model aspires to be the next Victoria’s Secret angel. And it would be the second record of the model in the history of the angels, since it would also be the first transgender model to parade for the famous fashion brand.

Preloved products: the new market

In recent years, thrift stores have gained great importance in the market. However, those products that seemingly are inaccessible to most, are more accessible because of luxury thrift stores. Chanel handbags, the Birkin handbag by Hermès, Versace or Dior designer luxury dresses, Gucci’s latest by Tom Ford or luxury vintage clothing are some of the most sought-after items searched for consumers.
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Many are those who think that buying luxury products in these types of stores takes away the prestige of whoever buys it. However, we can say that is the opposite. If an item is in perfect condition and I can also get it cheaper, why would not I buy it? Let’s say that buying cheaper second-hand luxury goods is a symbol of intelligence and not of smear.
Only a couple of years ago that online commerce began to be booming and there are still many people who distrust this type of service. It is logical that these are parts that can be obtained much cheaper, but still remain expensive. The ideal thing to take confidence in this type of purchase is to start with luxury accessories, since its cost is lower and it is not so afraid to “lose” that money in the event that the purchase was a scam.
The first thing to look for when buying in a second-hand online store of luxury products is social networks like Pinterest or Instagram: the user profile is real if you have many followers and publications. The second of the things to keep in mind is in the form of payment: the safest for this type of commerce is PayPal. Why? Check it out in this article and answer all your doubts. The third but not least, we must look at user ratings either on their website or on other platforms where they are selling their products such as Ebay.
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Now comes the second question: how do I know if the article I’m interested in is authentic? It is one of the biggest fears when buying online. In our case, Luxury and Vintage Madrid has a team of professionals who analyze the product and confirm that it is 100% authentic before taking the photos of the product to put it on sale. The process is thorough, which analyzes the material and composition of the product, logos, engraving, serial numbers, invoices … ultimately, analyze the smallest detail to ensure the quality standard for to be able to sell the product.
When buying on the Internet is also very important to look at the pictures of the product and its description: the more photos in which we can see the details, the better. In addition, in the case of a product description that has a defect, it is important to see what it is, and if we can provide a photograph with that defect, perhaps when we see it does not seem such a big problem for not buying it.
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In addition, this new type of web pages not only benefit people who want to purchase a product: also, for those who want to sell it. Normally, there is a “consign” section in which you send your product to the company and they upload it to their website after having passed the authenticity check. The objective? That you sell your product faster. When it comes to trusting this type of service, you should be aware of the type of percentage or commission that the company takes, as it can sometimes be quite high. In our case, if you want to know more about our procedure of consignment, we attach the section of our web page with the specifications to consign.
From Luxury and Vintage Madrid, we offer you the seriousness, the quality and the loyalty so that you trust in us to the 100%. We sell quality and authenticity at the best price. Luxury items for both men and women, with all quality standards in order and a secure payment method. What more could you ask for?
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Loewe’s Amazon bag, Hermès’ famous Birkin or Constance bags, or Chanel’s classic 2.55 are some of the items our customers are already enjoying because of their trust in us.
 
What are you waiting for?

Kim Kardashian stolen in Paris

Five masked men were the protagonists of the altercation. Armed, they have broken into the room of Kanye West’s wife (who was staying there on the occasion of the Paris Fashion Week) to take many of her jewelry and personal items, hovering a figure of around 10 million euros.
Kim apparently was in the bathroom when the thieves entered, and fortunately, their children North and Saint were not in the room. Her spokeswoman, Ina Treciokas, has informed to the CNN that is without any physical damage, but obviously emotional damages are much higher and Kim is not well.
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Her husband Kanye West, was giving a concert at Festival Meadows (New York) while Kim was being stolen. Upon hearing the news, he had to stop the show and report that was absent for “family reasons”.
Undoubtedly one of the most difficult weeks of the West-Kardashian, because remember that last week the famous, Vitalii Sediuk, tried to kiss the ass of Kim Kardashian, but was caught before he could do so.
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Rossy de Palma and Jean Paul Gaultier: a different beauty

I did not mind my nose, the problem was the other. One has the right to be yourself. I am, what happens?

-Rossy de Palma

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The fashion world is full of women traced: thin and tall, almost as fallen angels from heaven. No nose jobs, or collagens or facelifts. Rossy de Palma was the antithesis of time and achieved his fame as a model with such brands as Gap, Jean Paul Gautier, Louis Vuitton or Rouge.

Born in Palma de Mallorca on 16 September 1964 is a Spanish actress best known as “Almodóvar girl” and has also been the muse of famous designer Jean Paul Gautier. With a different face, his face almost Cubist belonging to Picasso has achieved success thanks to their self-esteem, their self-esteem and absolute confidence in herself.

That is why the famous designer noticed her. Both shared the same concept and a unique insight into the world of fashion. They liked not follow any rules and that is why they congenial as well.In his farewell designer prat-a-pòrter (to devote himself exclusively to haute couture) didm´t want Rossy de Palma missing the ceremony, being the godmother of it.

Here we show a brief excerpt of the parade that almost two years ago.