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Iris Van Herpen: Haute Couture in 3D

Posted on March 16, 2017 by luxuryandvintagemadrid

For me, fashion is an expression of art that is very intimately related to me and my body. I see it as an exciting way to express my identity.

-Iris Van Herpen for the British magazine Dazed & Confused.

The young designer of Haute Couture, Iris Van Herpen, has broken the patterns of fashion with her designs so novel and creative using the techniques of last generation. She has already been recognized by the Haute Couture Chambre Syndicale for that vision so different from other fashion designers.
She has undoubtedly revolutionized the world of Haute Couture. A world in which craftsmanship is predominant, the arrival of the designer made a big impact on the world of fashion with her works of art almost taken from science fiction.
After graduating from the Art Institute of Arhem (Holland, 2006) and having worked with such great designers as Alexander Mcqueen or Viktor & Rolf, 2007 marks a before and a after in the designer’s career because she creates her own firm. In 2010 she won the Rado of the Academy of Dutch Fashion to the best young designer and in 2011, after being praised by the famous Times Square magazine for a dress of her creation, singer Björk decides that she is the designer of the dress that will be on the cover of Biophilia:

There is a huge amount of things around us that we use and know, but which we are not aware of. For me, those are the most beautiful to explore, because I can make them visible with my imagination. Instead, I can not work with visible references since they do not allow me to fantasize.

-Iris Van Herpen

With the idea of things not visible to the human eye, Iris Van Herpen has already created several collections based on the sensory. Its concepts are clear and defined. Her designs tell stories. For its Radiation Invasion collection, she was based, for example, on the signals and radiation that make telecommunications visible. Or his collection Synesthesia, which is based on concepts such as “seeing” music or “taste” colors.
Radiation Invasion:

Synesthesia:

Creating handmade or with a sewing machine gives great possibilities, but also imposes many restrictions. Working directly in three dimensions, with direct printing in 3D, for me it is like a dream because the idea goes from my head directly to the clothes without first passing the drawing on the paper.

-Iris Van Herpen

With its incredible innovation and especially with the use of materials as complex as the plexiglass, it is not surprising that magazines such as Vogue or Harper’s Bazaar have dedicated to her more than one article.

Nice dress, Meryl. Is it an Ivanka?

Posted on March 9, 2017 by luxuryandvintagemadrid

“After giving her a dress that costs 100,000 euros, we learned that we had to pay more. We give them clothes, we make them, but we do not pay ”

-Karl Lagerfeld

One of the most valued actresses in the world of film and who this year opted for her 20th Oscar nomination for best actress, Meryl Streep, has been the protagonist of the latest incident with Karl Lagerfeld, creative director of Chanel.

The actress has been in evidence of the world by the greed. The dispute begins with Karl Lagerfeld, who claimed to be making a dress for the actress. € 100,000 in Haute Couture dress, which process had to stop by a call from Meryl’s representative. He told Karl that at the Oscar gala would not wear Chanel since they had found another designer who would pay him to wear his luxury brand.

“She’s a great actress, but a little bit stingy, isn´t she?”

-Karl Lagerfeld

That was Karl’s response to the comment. And it was expensive, since the famous actress was quite angry although the couturier has already tried to apologize.

Karl Lagerfeld, a prominent designer, slandered me and my stylist, and the illustrious designer whose dress I chose to wear has done so in a major industry publication – said Meryl Streep according to a statement published by WWD. He lied and I’m still waiting for him to apologize. And Karl Lagerfeld replied, After an informal conversation, I misunderstood that Mrs. Streep might have picked another designer to charge for it, but I have confirmed Mrs. Streep’s team that is not the case. I regret this controversy and I wish Ms. Streep to do well with her 20th nomination.

But you’ll all wonder: Who would be the lucky designer to wear Meryl Streep at the Oscar gala at the Dolby Theater? That dazzling dark blue Haute Couture dress with rhinestones and word of honor, is by designer Elie Saab.

The dispute is not yet over, because Meryl Streep is still waiting for Karl to deny it. What is certain is that the dispute gave rise to good times at the Oscar gala at the hands of Jimmy Kimmel, who asked the actress: Nice dress Meryl, is it an Ivanka? (Alluding to the latest dispute that recently took place between the actress and Donald Trump).

The expensive privilege of Haute Couture

Posted on March 6, 2017 by luxuryandvintagemadrid

Exclusiveness. The measure. Garments made by hand and with little use of the sewing machine. Luxury materials hand-stitched carefully for a perfect finish. Costurers who develop new techniques that take a long time.
That is why it is said that Haute Couture pieces are priceless. The development of these bespoke designs is known worldwide and only a few privileged can afford. It is an exclusive design, made with the highest quality materials that will adapt to every inch of your body. Undoubtedly, Haute Couture is the dream of every woman.

Catherine Riviere is in charge of directing the Haute Couture of the house Dior. She controls the entire process, from being manufactured until the customer buys it. Her function is mainly to ensure that the house maintains the tradition but adapting to the modern. She does not talk about prices. She says that the price of a Haute Couture garment should only matter to the client who is going to buy the garment and that if she then wants to say what it has cost, say it. Despite not wanting to talk about prices, she gives a clue: from 40,000 €. However, a piece of what we know as prêt-à-porter, would cost us approximately 8,000 €.

defile-haute-couture-automne-hiver-2016-17-best-of — Dior Haute Couture

But many will ask: What´s the difference between Haute Couture and prêt-à-porter? The materials used. But above all, the hours. Many will think that we talk about expensive clothes. And it is true. But it is what they cost. They may be working on a dress for a whole year, counting on the manufacture of the materials, the measurements of the client and the work of the seamstresses. It is a work of art, a way of being and thinking. It is something unique and extraordinary that will have only an individual experience. And that’s where the difference is made.

chanel-couture-spring-summer-2016-1 — Chanel Haute Couture

Prêt-à-porter (ready to wear) garments, would be the ones that are made, unlike the Haute Couture, with a certain pattern and with which they work according to the demand of the product. We could say that they are the clothes we usually wear on a daily basis (although some people can afford wear Haute Couture daily).
Not all luxury brands that most of us know work with Haute Couture garments. In fact, there is an union in which you must meet some guidelines to be part of this select club.
1. The first rule is that the house must design the client an exclusive piece and totally tailored, with one or more tests until the garment is perfect.
2. The second rule talks about the membership of a workshop or studio that is located in Paris and has at least 20 employees working full time.
3. The third but not least is that each season must present to the public a collection of at least 50 new designs of the brand.
All the houses that make Haute Couture, also make prêt-à-porter. In addition, the latest is the one that gives more income to the brands. It’s what sells the most and it takes less time to make it.
The official members of Haute Couture are: Chanel, Giorgio Armani, Christian Dior, Jean Paul Gaultier, Stephane Rolland and Giambattista Valli. In addition, foreign members include Elie Saab and Versace.
During the 20th century Haute Couture suffered a significant decline. From 106 homes in 1946 to only 18 in 2000, reducing to only 9 in 2004 (Versace, Dior, Chanel, Valentino, Lacroix, Gaultier, Givenchy …).